Saturday, October 27, 2007

How to invite people to a meeting....

The sorghum wheat and sunflowers are taller than our vehicle on either side, we’re bouncing up and down, riding over crater like potholes, and Alfred, one of my African team members, tells me “Yes, this is how you keep your body strong, and stay fit, you have to hang on very tight.”

I can already tell my left arm has been doing the work of steadying my body over the endless jerking of the vehicle. The breeze flowing through the windows feels like a blessing; and I question why they’re being rolled up. “You see, here in Uganda we have limited eye care, so we must take all precautions; close the windows.” As he’s saying this, I got jabbed in the cheek by loose particles flying in the window as the 12 foot tall crops are inviting themselves into our open windows; I assist in rolling them up. We’re on our way to 3 IDP camps (Internally Displaced People), where we’re to meet with the camp commanders and the local camp leaders to set up a meeting the next week with them and their community about identifying what the camp needs are; essentials like water, a place to go to the bathroom.

Arriving at the camp, there’s about 50 round mud huts, all roofed with dried straw, swept dirt ground, there are women walking with water and firewood balanced on their heads, children walking with younger siblings tied to their backs, children running free, chickens, goats, and a few wandering cows. These are all good signs for this community - despite the lack of basic living essentials and poverty, they’ve been able to establish a safe area outside of the huge mother camp of Patongo. Peace has been stable enough, and if it continues, the next step will be to continue home to their villages. It's been 20 years since they were there.

The camp commander sees we’ve arrived, approaches us, and tells us to follow him to his office as he hops on the back of a bicycle, leaving us a trail of dust to follow. Following it, we stop, and although I see no ‘office’ in sight, I am told we’ve arrived. I look up, and see it’s a giant mango tree. So we gather around, underneath the shading branches, appreciating that this office has a natural air conditioner. The 2nd camp is much the same, and this time I find myself looking for the mango tree, anticipating that it must be someone's “office”. In this meeting I peered around the edge of the vehicle and saw a collection of people had gathered, curious as to what these conversations were about. It appeared a bit like the game of telephone, where one person hears the message, and then whispers it to the next, and the next. As we depart for the 3rd camp, and travel down the previous road, I sense this one might be a bit further to get to from the directions Alfred is giving our driver Tito: “Yes, look for the small stick on the right, that is where we turn”. Sure enough, there it was. I barely saw it, but we turned and now were driving down what seemed like a walking path that only 3 people had ever been on, through the 12 foot high field that smashed against the vehicle. After driving for quite some time, there is a discussion about where to go next, and then a woman and man are spotted ahead. Appearing about 70 years old, I am trying to imagine where they are walking to, considering the distance we’ve been driving. She tells us in her local language of Luo, that they’re going to collect food from the World Food Program distribution air drop, and that up ahead we may want to use the 4wd because of all the deep mud holes. Sure enough, the mud holes seemed to swallow more of the car than I cared to see, and this was not yet the rainy season.

Arriving at this camp, we see it's actually only 1 hut at the moment. Apparently more will be coming at some time, but for now the man tells us that he is the camp commander. (By default, I suppose). This meeting is held back among the banana trees, where I see the women are sorting out some spinach-like plants and my eyes are drawn to the handmade sling-shot on the ground. I ask if I can try it, and successfully load a piece of the hardened mud and aim for a close range trunk of the banana tree….hitting it…and smashing the mud ball. While chatting about the business, and discussing the community meeting that will be held next week, we’re all gathered around the spinach plants, sorting out the leaves and forming a gigantic mound of greens preparing to be cooked. As we’re getting ready to leave, I ask the man about the use of his slingshot, wondering if it's for fun or for hunting. He replies “For hunting small birds in the sky”, and proceeds to pull out small, de-feathered bird from his trouser pocket, and says “Here, a gift for you.” After he explained to me how to eat the back legs of the bird, which was not bigger than a robin, I decided to leave it with him and his family as an addition to their spinach dinner.


Returning to our vehicle, without the bird, but with more knowledge of life here, I complimented Tito on the music, and he replied 'Yes, Kathleen, I don't know this man singing, but I always feel like dancing when hearing him !'


As we drove back through the fields of sunflowers, I wondered if I should share the name of this artist, and finally did tell him that it was in fact 'Bob Dylan'.

Saturday, October 20, 2007

"Life is not always easy, you know"

Here are some photos from our field visit to IDP camps around Patongo.

Coming into one of the IDP camps that we have a program in.
Meeting with the Camp Commander under the mango tree, discussing the upcoming community meeting.


"Life is not always easy, you know"



Thursday, October 18, 2007

Patongo IDP camp; a few reflections

Kampala to Patongo Quentin from the UK, and I flying up to the north together on this tiny plane ! We'll be working closely together, as our programs with Medair are funded together with USAID/OFDA.


Patongo,

morning walks lit by the rising sun over the mountains
women gather by the water points with a line of yellow jerry cans
smiles, waves, greetings,

a family greeting on my morning walk

men on bicycles, dusty trails follow them
children wandering about, torn clothes, smiles, yelling 'mono, mono!' *white person!*

life here is simple, we are only visitors here, to the people living here, this has been their 'home' for 20 years now

some have moved half-way home , to satellite camps, in hopes of a peace deal being signed,
but 30,000 remain here, in Patongo, waiting for an actual deal to hopefully signify a situation that would allow them and their families to return to what was home.
some of their faces reveal hope, others trauma,



2 young kids at a local IDP camp, giggling as they ran around the corner of the building and back several times; seeing their smiles is encouraging !

children who are orphans, and raising their brothers and sisters have perhaps the hardest day to day survival

school is important, tattered uniforms, all barefoot, in the mornings as I ask where they are going, they are proud to say 'I'm fine and today I'm going to school'.
I feel this is the place I'm supposed to be; happy and content ! Alot of work in front of me, learning from the team that's been here will be most exciting. Yesterday, visiting another camp with my hygiene team, made up of 5 Ugandans; I saw their talents shine with these communities; interactions, mobilisation, planning, questions, faciliatation, supplies. As there are 4 of us ex/pats here living with our team of 18 or so Ugandans in 1 compound; it's very lively in the evenings.

Alfred and George, 2 of our team, finishing up facilitating a community meeting in a IDP camp outside of Patongo

I slept under the stars last night, with a mosquito net over me, it was lovely, peaceful and a good space to reflect.

Monday, October 15, 2007

East Africa; Kenya, Uganda, preparing for the move north

So, what has been happening these 3 weeks in east Africa....before moving to the north of Uganda on October 15th ?

*September 25th; arrive from USA, healing from surgery, spend a few days in Kampala, Uganda

* September 28th; Flew to Nairobi, Kenya for a Water Sanitation training with Medair. A collaboration of their program country experts from Darfur, south Sudan, Uganda, Madagascar, Indonesia, Afghanastan, Congo. About 30 people in total, a mix between national staff from those countries, and expat staff; examining current methods for drilling, water sanitation, humanitarian guidelines, Sphere standards, beneficiary accountability, & hygiene promotion. All very interesting, well run, and dynamic with the cross cultural influences.


*Back in Kampala on October 7th, a week long briefing at the Medair base; more information on the programs here, security, structure of the logistics and admin, and driving test (which meant for me, a stick shift on the opposite side of the car, on the opposite side of the road; try a round-a-bout with that !? in Kampala traffic?! ) Independence day was last week and since the office was closed here, I found an orphange to go to and had a splendid time with lovely children. After a busy week of briefings, I decided to escape for a few days of quiet time before the trek to the north. Venturing east of the Kampala to the small town of Jinja, it's at the base of the Nile River where it meets Lake Victoria. I happen upon Amani Baby Orphanage on Saturday, intending to stay for a few hours, but couldn't peel myself away until the sun was setting and I needed to get a boda-boda back the place I was staying. The orphange takes lovely care of the children and the women that work there are just remarkable. There were so many children, some abandoned, parents died, others found in the bottom of pit-latrines and some hiv +. One particular little teeny one, named Matthew, was about 3 months old, but still looked like a premature baby because of his hiv+ status. His eyes are full of life though, and he loves to smile; I wonder how long he'll live and if he'll live long enough to understand that he's sick?
Brian, an Acholi, at the Jordan House Orphanage in Kampala

Africa...cancer?....Africa


So, now its the final leg of flights; tomorrow, Oct. 15th, I'll be departing Kampala, Uganda and arriving in my new home, the Patongo displacement camp in Northern Uganda. Home to approximately 30,000 Acholi people displaced by the 20 year war.

I've been moving around now for about 4 months, training in Geneva, tasting Morocco, enjoying and packing up life in Portland, Oregon, heading back to my home territory in the UP of Michigan, mom, dad, Amanda, Leah, baby Eli's birthday (1!), then in September, departing for a HQ briefing with Medair in Geneva, and directly from there onto Uganda, East Africa. Well, at least that last part was my plan, but clearly it wasn't the plan.

While in Geneva, on September 6th, 12 hours from catching my much anticipated flight to mark the beginning of my new home in Africa, I received an email from my dad. It contained words I didn't want to read, and once I did, I wish I hadn't, or maybe I just had hoped they wouldn't be true. They had just got a report back from the doctor and I did indeed have cancer in my neck, attached to my thyroid. I had to fly home immediately. So, holding a boarding pass for Uganda in one hand, and reading this news on the screen, my mind went blank, I couldn't speak, but I could feel tears rolling down my cheeks. Recycling my ticket to Africa, 10 minutes later I bought a flight home, and literally it was my ticket to life. Why? Because I realize that I was headed to this displacement camp, where if I was a 26 year women born and living there, I would have no access to a chiropractor, thank you Dr. Kalbeida in Marquette, who would have noticed a lump, nor would I have health care at my fingertips, surgeons who rearrange their schedules, endocrinologists who squeeze me in when they don't have openings, labs who rush order, radiologists and nurses who do a procedure on a weekend when they usually never do, and insurance to cover all of it. If I was born in that camp, it would be nearly impossible to have access to all of that, and I would probably just have been a person who died young. So why are we privileged to receive all that? And will they someday have the same care available? I have more questions than answers about this spinning idea.

With many conversations with the surgeon, doctors, research articles, my parents and I tried to make the best decision we could about the surgery to remove the cancer, thyroid, lymph nodes. Because most medicine is based on statistics, there wasn't a clear way to go with this situation, whether to remove 1/2 the thyroid or the whole thing. Both having pros and cons, it felt like I was asking for directions to a place that didn't exist. Every situation had 2 sides, and not a clear way to fall. My head felt like it was at the limit of processing what to do. The surgery day came and went, the 5 hour procedure going well, despite my nerves higher than I've ever felt them. Dr. Heichel is a phenomenal surgeon and took great care opening up such a delicate part on the body; vocal chords, jugular, and other major parts running through this area. Removing the cancerous tumor, 1.4 cm, a lymph node and the left side of my thyroid; I then was waiting for the results of the thorough biopsy of the 3 items they removed.

Perhaps I had thought of that question before, what would I do if I was informed that my life would be shortened? How would I take that news? Would I live differently now? Am I doing what I feel I should be, loving the people I'm with, serving those in the world? If the cancer spread to my lymph nodes, and my life would be cut significantly, what would I do in that time? I had to be ready to hear that....and I'm not sure that I was. The good news was that it had not spread farther than the tumor, and although I will have another surgery, it wasn't necessary now, and could wait awhile. So, pondering some of the hardest thoughts I've had to face, in a short period of time, hoping I made all the right decisions...as my mom told me "if you want to live an interesting life Kathleen, first you have to have a life to live". Recovering at home was peaceful; flowers arrived at the house everyday from loved ones, walks were taken among the fall leaves, canoe rides under the moonlight, laughs sitting my the lake, painting with my sisters, hiking with Eli. And I realize that just because I wasn't told that my life is going to end shorter, doesn't mean that it won't, or yours won't. But, what it does mean is that I have a new feeling inside of me about a "day", and it's hard to put words to it.
With mom and dad in Portland, Oregon



Mama Leah, with Eli Enjoying a night out with my sister Amanda, and friend Jason

I flew to Africa 10 days after my surgery, recovered enough to fly, and healed enough physically to make the long flight. The second goodbye to everyone meant something different from the first; the love and support was reached at a new level and I was now able to continue on my life plans, where as before, it was just a given. When something is questioned or disappears, it gives new meaning to it when you can safely hold it again, and this time with gentle hands. Life.



Eli with his "superstar" pose after a hike up Sugarloaf Mountain